I’ll never forget the days i spent in the Nubian Village in Aswan . We stayed at Khaleed’s bed and breakfast, Ekadoli Nubian Guest House. I think I could have stayed there for an entire year just writing and enjoying their food and traditions.
Breakfast was an assortment of dishes. Eggs, fava bean stew, home made bread and cheese, fig jam, home grown tomatoes and cucumbers drizzled in olive oil and topped off with spices. Everything was so fresh!
After breakfast we headed to our own private beach along the the Nile. Laying our towels we’d alternate between splashes along the shore (currents are extremely strong, beware!) sunbathing, and applying coconut oil as sunscreen (we didn’t want to pollute the water with sunscreen). Those were surreal days to say the least.
After taking in so much sun we were golden and bathing in the crystal clean waters to our hearts content, we’d all head back to Khalleed’s for lunch and a beer. Let me disclose that the entire time we were drinking water. More like guzzling. Its the only way to maintain proper hydration. You drink, and drink, and drink. Otherwise. Life as usual.
Evenings are delicious in Egypt and its good to take a refreshing nap so you can have the energy to really enjoy them. After our religious daily nap we would head down to the Nubian bazaar. The best way I can describe it is a scene taken directly out of the Arabian Nights. Hundreds of lamps light the scene and the sweet scent of spices and herbs is everywhere. Impossibly vibrant, colorful scarves are everywhere to be found. It’s hard to pick one, or even 10. They are all so beautiful. In some of the tents, men quietly weave on traditional looms. All of this, just steps from our lodging. After a good hour of exploring we walk back to have a delicious dinner of Nile fish, traditional koftit burgers and seasonal vegetables under the stars.
Egypt is an undeniably beautiful country with so much to offer, a hundred libraries could hardly house all its mysterious tales. One of the crown jewels of that ancient land, has to be, in my humble opinion, the largely unknown Nubian Village just outside of Aswan past the damn.
How to get there. There are a couple of ways to get to Aswan. We hired a driver from Luxor with the help of the hotel owner. It was $40 ($35+$5 tip) at the time and took about 5 hours. There may also be a sleeper train from Cairo to Aswan, but you don’t want to miss Luxor. Trust me!
I plan on trying the Luxor-Aswan route via Felucca on the Nile one day. I’ll let you know how that goes.